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Varieties of coffee

Mar 20, 2020Charles Fleer

The two most common and commercially used coffee varieties that any barista would remember even if they woke up in the middle of the night, and they might even tell you something, even if you are not familiar with the world of coffee. They are Arabica and Coffea Canephora (known as Robusta). However, there are thousands of other different varieties that either occur naturally or are developed and adapted to achieve specific coffee properties (such as resistance to various diseases, a different flavor profile, etc.). In our short overview, we will therefore briefly explain some of the processes we use to cultivate our coffee and how you can influence the taste of the coffee variety and therefore what the tasting experience will be.

SL28

SL 28 is a coffee variety from Kenya that was created in 1930 by Scott Laboratories (derivative of "SL"). The botanists of this institute conducted a series of experiments with different mutations of the French blend, Mocha and Yemeni Typica. Their goal was to find a high-quality and disease-resistant variety. One of the results is SL 28, although only to a small extent. This variety has a copper-colored leaf and produces beans the size of beans. The flavor profile is blackcurrant, typical of the best Kenyan coffees (this variety is specific in that it absorbs phosphorus from the soil, converts it into phosphoric acid in the coffee seed, and thus creates a unique flavor). This means that in the final cup you will feel an intense fruity, sweet and balanced taste.

Congo, WCR, 2018

SL34

Another product from Scott's laboratory in Kenya in 1930 is SL 34. This mutation of the French variety (Bourbon), grown in both higher and lower elevations with good rainfall. It is characterized by a dark bronze color. The farmer grows it in large quantities, it is very fine and of very good quality, but beware, this variety is very sensitive to coffee rust.

Bourbon

Along with the traditional Typica variety, Bourbon is the most widely grown subspecies of C. arabica in the world. The name originally comes from the island of Réunion, which was once called Île Bourbon. Expert Peter Giuliano believes that the original African and Yemeni varieties were originally grown on the island. Whether Bourbon is the result of spontaneous crossing of these two varieties or simply a mutation of one variety remains a question.

Currently, only remnants of the original variety, known as Bourbon Point, remain on the island. Harvests from a few private fields are sold exclusively at auctions in Japan.

Costa Rica, Finca La Lia, 2015

Bourbon was successfully adapted in Brazil in the 1860s, from where it reached the plantations of other growing countries in Latin America. The coffee plant of this variety is pyramidal in shape, usually 2 m tall, resistant to severe drought, producing pointed berries, in which the grains are more like rice. It is also characterized by small leaves and thin side branches. Interestingly, the original Bourbon Point variety is exceptional for its low caffeine content of 0.4-0.8% (for comparison: Robusta 3-3.5%, Arabica Typica 1.2-1.9%) and a very delicate taste with a delicious weak acidity, low bitterness, full body and a charming fruity aftertaste of oranges, tangerines and sometimes even litchi.

Ripe Bourbon cherries are yellow, red, or, in the case of the Hawaiian mutation, orange. Bourbon is popular for its complex and clean acidity, which is complemented by strong sweet notes of caramel and chocolate.

Guatemala, Finca La Bolsa, 2016

Typica

Arabica typica is the original variety that was discovered in the Kaffa rainforest in Ethiopia centuries ago. Typica was the first variety to be introduced to the New World, brought there by a French naval officer in the 1700s. In 1720, he sent thousands of seedlings to the French colony of Martinique. Typica has many mutations, sub-types include Hawaii Kona, Jamaican Blue Mountain, Java typica, Guatemala typica and Jember among others. For example, the Kent mutation is grown in India. Typica is grown in small quantities, has excellent quality with a sweet and distinctly acidic aftertaste.

Guatemala, Finca La Bolsa, 2016

Ethiopian varieties

There are over 2,500 indigenous coffee varieties in Ethiopia, usually named after the village where they have been grown for centuries, but their exact origin is unknown. The most popular include Gesha, Harrar, Yirgacheffe, Djimma, Lekempti, etc. Within these cultivars, there are 20 other variants.

It is almost impossible to navigate such a huge number of varieties. Varieties grown in the southwest of Ethiopia in the regions of Yirgacheffe, Sidamo, Gesha usually have citrus and floral tones with a pronounced jasmine flavor. In contrast, coffees from the eastern regions have intense fruit and chocolate tones. This difference is caused by the different microclimate, but it cannot be generalized too much.

Geisha

Probably the most famous and most sought-after botanical variety of coffee today. Geisha (correctly Gesha) was discovered in the forests of the Abyssinia region in southwestern Ethiopia in 1931. However, its magnificent flavor character was revealed only at the end of the 20th century. Daniel Peterson from the Panamanian farm Hacienda La Esmeralda, to which the variety came in a rather mysterious way. Geisha was brought to Panama a few years earlier by the famous farmer Don Pachi from Costa Rica, but it was the Peterson family that was able to get the most out of it in terms of quality and financial terms.

The approximate historical development of this variety can be summarized as follows: Ethiopia (1931), Kenya (1931-32), Tanzania (1936), Costa Rica (Don Pachi 1953-1963), Panama (1990).

Guatemala, Finca La Bolsa, 2016

For the past few years, the annual auction of coffees from the Hacienda La Esmeralda farm has been a highly watched event. In 2007, the auction set a record of $130/lb for green coffee. Esmeralda Especial has won all sorts of competitions such as Best of Panama (2009, 2007, 2006, 2005, 2004), Coffee of the Year, Rainforest Alliance Cupping for Quality, etc.

Geisha bushes grow so tall that a ladder is sometimes needed to harvest their fruit. To achieve the desired flavor profile (high sweetness in the cup, notes of forest fruit, tangerine, papaya with a hint of bergamot), Geisha must be grown at very high altitudes.

After its huge financial success on international markets, the so-called “geisha boom” swept through Latin America. With the prospect of high profits, most farmers began to focus on growing this particular variety, even if the conditions on their farms were not entirely ideal. In the coming years, we can expect a large influx of Geisha coffees of various qualities.

Pacamara

In 1958, the El Salvador Coffee Institute (ISIC) developed a new type of hybrid with the characteristic name Pacamara. The first component is the Pacas variety – a high-yielding hybrid of the “San Ramón Bourbon” that was bred in 1956 by two prominent scientists in El Salvador (Don Alberto Pacas and Don Francisco De Sola). The second part was the Maragogype variety, renowned for its large beans, strong acidity and delicate flavor profile.

Pamacara has a very specific taste that has its supporters and opponents. The higher the Pacamara is grown, the better the coffee beans. The taste is characterized by a strong floral aroma, spicy notes and medium body.

Costa Rica, Finca La Lia, 2015

Catimor

Hybrid between Timor and Caturra

Catimor is a hybrid between the Timor and Caturra species. This variety was created in Portugal in 1959. The ripening of this variety is early and the production is very high, the yield is equal to or slightly higher than that of other commercial coffees. For this reason, the method of fertilization and shade control must be followed carefully.

The Catimor T-8667 variety is relatively small in size, but has large coffee fruits and beans.

Catimor line T-5269 is a very strong variety and adapts well in lower areas between 2000-3000 above sea level with an annual average rainfall of over 3000 mm.

Catimor T-5175 is also very productive and robust, but can have problems at either very high or very low altitudes. At low altitudes there is almost no difference in quality between Catimor and other species and commercial coffee varieties, but at altitudes above 4000 ft Bourbon, Caturra, and Catuai have better quality.

Catuai

Dwarf variety

Catuai is a dwarf variety that was created by laboratory crossing Mundo Novo and Caturra at the Agricultural Institute (IAC) in Brazil in 1949.

The yellow and red varieties are used on farms, and the difference in taste is almost indistinguishable. Planting this hybrid is suitable in areas with very strong winds and frequent rains, as it is a resistant variety and relatively tolerant of weather fluctuations.

Maragogype

Elephant beans

Maragogype (also called elephant bean) is an Arabica variety that produces exceptionally large beans. It is a mutant that appeared spontaneously in Brazil.

This variety was first discovered near the town of Maragogype, in the northeastern state of Bahia. It was subsequently transported to other places in Latin America, generally adopting the characteristic flavor of the soil in which it was transplanted.

The Maragogype variety has become quite rare, making it very difficult to find coffee. Most Maragogype sold in North America is grown in Mexico, Nicaragua, or Guatemala. Varieties from Chiapas, Mexico, and the Coban district of Guatemala have the best reputations.

Cattura

Natural mutations of the Bourbon variety

Caturra is a natural mutation of the Bourbon variety. It was discovered in 1935 near the town of Caturra in Brazil, after which it is named. Caturra is a variety with a very high yield and a good flavor profile (clean acidity, light to medium body, less pronounced sweet flavors than Bourbon), but with high fertilizer and maintenance requirements. Its higher yield is due to a mutation of a single gene, which is also found in other varieties such as Pacas from El Salvador or Villa Sarchi from Costa Rica.

Caturra is a very small tree with a strong trunk and many secondary branches. It has leaves similar to the Bourbon variety, but smaller in size. It adapts well to a wide range of climatic conditions, but does best between 500-1500 m above sea level, in areas with an average annual rainfall of 2500-3500 mm. If this variety is grown at higher altitudes, the quality of the coffee increases, but at the expense of yield.

Maracaturra

A hybrid between Maragogype and Caturra

Maracaturra, also known as Maracatu, is a hybrid between Maragogype & Caturra. Originally from Brazil, it is known for its large leaves, flowers and fruit. Today, it is also grown in Central America, mainly in Nicaragua, El Salvador and Mexico. Maracaturra produces coffee with bright and complex acidity and a fruity character.

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